Ooooh, even weirder.
Before I started playing with this, 'Override Level Graphics' was 'Auto', 'Custom Graphics' was 'Classic Graphics'. And what I saw looked one way.
I changed 'Override' to 'Yes', and saw the other thing (classic graphics with color-coded levels).
I changed 'Override' back to 'Auto', and still saw classic graphics.
I changed 'Override' to 'No', and saw the original thing.
I changed 'Override' back to 'Auto', and saw classic graphics.
So now, no matter which I have visited recently, 'Auto' always shows classic graphics.
(All tested during a single run. I wasn't saving settings, so I'm pretty sure if I exit and re-enter it'll be back to the 'other' graphics. In fact, yes, that's what happens.)

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